triskellian: (yum)
[personal profile] triskellian
i've had dozens of birthday dinners, hundreds of birthday presents, and thousands of meals. Dinner last night wins in every category.

[livejournal.com profile] smiorgan took me to the Fat Duck, allegedly the second best restaurant in the world. (Is it more impressive to say it's this year's second best, or last year's best? I've no idea. And since I've no immediate plans to go to El Bulli, with which it swapped places, the question is probably academic.)

We had the seventeen-course tasting menu. Yes, seventeen courses, although most of them were tiny. [livejournal.com profile] smiorgan had the accompanying wine selections.

We were seated at the table I'd have chosen for myself - by the window and in a corner, with a view of the rest of the room. And because we sat down just before everyone else within sight, we had the dual joy of having everyone else watching with fascination as each new dish arrived at our table, and of being able to relive each course in the expressions of the people around us. I found myself getting nostalgic for courses past as other people encountered them.

The first course was made before our eyes, with the first appearance of liquid nitrogen. I was spoilered for the second course, but that only took away a little bit of the fun (it's possible to be spoilered for this meal). The third course was incredible. I took my first bite of course five and said words to the effect of "oh my god, that may be the best thing I've ever tasted". During course ten, I reviewed what we'd had so far and decided my favourite was one of courses three, five, six, eight or ten, but I couldn't tell which any more.

I ran out of superlatives to give the waiter when he arrived to clear away after each course and asked us how it was. Sometimes I was saved from coming up with one by the fact that i was still laughing for sheer joy.

After the pudding courses, the waiter said "good morning" as he arrived with the next course: breakfast. Course sixteen, the second of the breakfast courses, was the one I had been most looking forward to. I still don't have the superlatives to do it justice. Possibly my ability to use them will return eventually.

Menu
1. Nitro-green tea and lime mousse
It was more like meringue after the application of liquid nitrogen.
2. Orange and beetroot jelly
3. Oyster, passion fruit jelly, horseradish cream, lavender
I don't really like oysters, in the normal run of things.
4. Pommery grain mustard ice cream, red cabbage gazpacho
Served in a huge bowl with a tiny dip in the centre, and the gazpacho was deep purple :-)
5. Jelly of quail, langoustine cream, parfait of foie gras, matsutake
I've no idea what matsutake is.
6. Snail porridge with Joselito ham, shaved fennel
I don't much like fennel or snails, either, but this was still one of my favourites.
7. Roast foie gras with almond fluid gel, cherry and chamomile
The fois gras was great, but the cherry didn't work for me.
8. Sardine on toast sorbet with ballotine of mackerel ‘invertebrate’, marinated daikon
Really, really sardine-on-toast sorbet. You could taste the toast.
9. Salmon poached with liquorice with asparagus, pink grapefruit, "manni" olive oil
Really don't like liquorice. Didn't stop me liking this.
10. Poached breast of anjou pigeon pancetta with pastilla of its leg, pistachio, cocoa and quatre épices
Cocoa, yes. And the pigeon was possibly the best cooked meat I've tasted.
11. Mrs Marshall’s margaret cornet
The tiniest ice cream cone in the world, and it came with a little biography of Mrs Marshall, who was a pioneering ice cream maker.
12. Pine sherbet fountain
Came in a tiny packet just like the sherbet fountains I had as a kid.
13. Mango and douglas fir puree with bavarois of lychee and mango, blackcurrant sorbet
14. Carrot and orange tuile with beetroot jelly
The carrot and orange tuile was lollipop-shaped :-)
15. Parsnip cereal with parsnip milk
Came in a cereal box just like at hotel breakfast buffets, and Fat Duck branded, as every such thing was.
16. Smoked bacon and egg ice cream with pain perdu, tea jelly
Prepared before our eyes, more liquid nitrogen, but all pretending to be the normal preparation of scrambled eggs. Words fail me.
17. Hot and cold tea
Hot and cold, both at the same time, in the one cup. We've no idea at all how this was accomplished.

That's the end of the actual tasting menu.

18. Tea
There was a whole tea menu. [livejournal.com profile] smiorgan had green, and I had white-with-jasmine. It was lovely, but nothing can help the fact that by the time you've finished the first cup out of the pot, the second is over-brewed :-(
19. Mint and pine chocolates
Mint as in tasted of the herb, unlike normal mint chocolate.
20. Whisky jelly and mysterious tart
I was in the loo when they brought this, and [livejournal.com profile] smiorgan didn't catch the description. The tart was a weird bluey-green colour and definitely familiar-tasting in some way, but we couldn't identify it.

Edit: the version of the menu [livejournal.com profile] bibliogirl had in April was only slightly different from what we had last night, and she's much more informative than I am on the intracacies of preparation.

Date: 2006-11-21 06:18 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] bopeepsheep.livejournal.com
The Fat Duck website suggests a Violet Tart belongs at the end of the tasting menu; could it have been that? (Flowers do often come out a funny colour when cooked with rather than used for decoration IME.) I can't see anything on the a la carte menu it could have been.

Yum. I will have to petition [livejournal.com profile] imc for our fifth wedding anniversary meal next summer, I think... :D

Date: 2006-11-21 06:24 pm (UTC)
white_hart: (Default)
From: [personal profile] white_hart
Oh wow! I'm so jealous, and that's even considering I did take [livejournal.com profile] topicaltim to Le Manoir for his 40th this year...

Date: 2006-11-21 07:57 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] leathellin.livejournal.com
Le Manoir is great - difference experience by the sound of things but great.
Degustacion menus are much more common out here, once we're back up to full budget I can see there being several...

Date: 2006-11-21 11:31 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] bibliogirl.livejournal.com
Le Manoir is great, but yes, a very different experience to the Fat Duck. Their tasting menu is only something like seven courses (and involved a lot more wine than the FD did, because we were staying at Le Manoir but driving home from the FD)

Date: 2006-11-21 06:40 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] inbetween-girl.livejournal.com
This sounds unbelievable! I am going to have to try and take [livejournal.com profile] thirstypixel there.

Date: 2006-11-21 07:26 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] shreena.livejournal.com
Wow. I'm really jealous! Although, I suspect that none of these places would do a vegetarian tasting menu anyway.. this comforts me obscurely!

Date: 2006-11-21 07:59 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] leathellin.livejournal.com
Le Manoir does do a vegetarian tasting menu and it was reported as very good. (I'm not vegetarian so I didn't have it myself :-)

Date: 2006-11-21 08:06 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] shreena.livejournal.com
Their website doesn't mention it, although it does have other vegetarian things. This seems to be fairly typical of really upmarket restaurants - they seem to feel that you will just talk to them directly about it but I've had such horrible experiences with French restaurants that I tend to feel too scared to. (Not with Le Manoir - cos they are obviously vegetarian friendly to some degree - but with others.)

Date: 2006-11-21 08:25 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] leathellin.livejournal.com
French restaurants seem to be a particular problem. Spanish (in Spain anyway) really aren't good either but I have now managed to find some specialist Vegetarian restaurants.
The Manoir vegetarian menu did used to be on it's website somewhere but I do remember having to find it to check that my Vegetarian friends would be able to eat. It was a good menu as well, not one of those put eggs in everything and meals with the vegetables only and no real meat replacement I have so often seen.

Date: 2006-11-22 08:37 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] undyingking.livejournal.com
Do let me know what good veggie places you've found. First time in Madrid several years ago I ate a lot at Artemisia, which was pretty much the only one in the centre, but last time it was not quite as nice and I suspect success has over-commercialized it a bit.

Date: 2006-11-21 07:54 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] lathany.livejournal.com
Wow. And more wow.

<considers every possible excuse to go>

Date: 2006-11-21 09:13 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] bateleur.livejournal.com
We'll think of something !

Date: 2006-11-21 10:11 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] secondhand-rick.livejournal.com
Naked greed and jealousy are ugly things. So poo to you for engendering them.

Date: 2006-11-21 10:36 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] motodraconis.livejournal.com
There seems to be a hell of a lot of ice cream and jelly in the menu, like a kids tea party.
Having said that, I'd love to try the place out myself. You lucky thing

Date: 2006-11-21 10:37 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] cuthbertcross.livejournal.com
OMG, that sounds amazing.

I had my first ever tasting menu earlier in the year when we had a work meal at an unusually swanky Indian restaurant in London (can't remember the name right now). They had a paltry 8 courses (!) but like you, each course left you going *mm*, that was exciting! - and then the next one came along and was even excitinger. Pheasant curry with chilli icecream, that sort of thing.

Tasting menus rock! (glad you enjoyed it).

Date: 2006-11-21 11:33 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] bibliogirl.livejournal.com
I'm really glad you enjoyed it ;)

Date: 2006-11-22 11:06 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] adamsmithjr.livejournal.com
Happy birthday, lucky girl.

Date: 2006-11-22 01:01 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] almostalady.livejournal.com
That just sounds too good for words.

Date: 2006-11-23 05:52 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] spyinthehaus.livejournal.com
Lord. The kit alone used in preparation is remarkable - it sounds like science kitchen.

Happy Birthday! On a Blumenthal tip, as nobody says, his articles are archived at the Grauniad - the first one is here.

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